Atop a low, green hill sits a stone building with a simple square tower. As you approach Iona Abbey, you see a pair of high crosses that stand in front like holy guardians carved from stone. Inside, the church echoes with bird calls and the wind blowing across the island. Light beams down on the stones of a sacred place built and rebuilt over many centuries.
Iona Abbey is one of the oldest Christian sites in western Europe. In the year 563 AD, St. Columba and a group of his followers arrived from Ireland and founded a monastery on the tiny rocky island. How do we know so much from this early time? Well, the monks of Iona were accomplished scribes and probably the ones responsible for creating the famous Book of Kells. Iona became a very sacred place where early Scottish kings were buried.
Today, most of what you see is from later expansions of the abbey and an early 20th century restoration project. But Iona Abbey retains its spiritual atmosphere for people of many faiths and holds fine medieval artifacts in its museum.
Ready to check it out? Here are my highlights, plus advice on how to get there and some tips on visiting.
Abbey Grounds and High Crosses
The abbey sits on a low hill overlooking the sea, and there are a few things to see before stepping inside. First there’s the Hill of the Abbot, a small rocky ridge where historians believe Columba’s dwelling once stood. Not much remains from Columba’s time almost 1,500 years ago. Today, the overall design of the building comes from the later Benedictine abbey of the 1200s.
One of the oldest things you will see is St. Martin’s Cross, a high cross made of dark granite that has stood on the spot for about 1,200 years (since the 800s AD). It’s a beautifully carved cross that shares similar art with the Book of Kells. The other high cross you’ll see is St. John’s Cross, but that one is a replica. The pieces of the original are displayed in the Abbey Museum.
You’ll notice signage in both English and Scottish Gaelic, the native language of the area.
Abbey Church
The most impressive part of the abbey is the Abbey Church. Even though it’s a patchwork of 20th century restoration and earlier bits of walls and foundations, the building feels authentically medieval.
Walking through the tiny front doors, you see an interior of weathered stone arches with a vaulted roof. The floor is plain stone as well, and the whole space feels connected to the air and sea outside. In fact, you can see bits of ferns growing along the walls.
Make sure to look up and spot four stained glass windows added during the church’s restoration in 1939-40. St. Columba, St. Brigid, St. Patrick, and St. Margaret of Scotland are all important to the history of Christianity in Scotland and Ireland.
Inside this medieval-ish structure, you’ll also see signs of today’s ecumenical church community. When the Duke of Argyll donated the church building to a trust for restoration, one of his requirements was that it be opened to worship for members of all denominations.
Abbey Museum
Around the back of the abbey you’ll find a small but excellent museum with medieval artifacts from the area. The museum is set up chronologically, starting with a carved stone from the generation after Columba’s time.
The highlight of the museum is an exhibit showing the broken pieces of St. John’s Cross. Dramatically lit from above, the huge cross stands 17 feet tall. It’s one of the earliest high crosses, dating from the 700s AD. The design employed a ring of stone to support the heavy arms of the cross, but it broke anyway and those fragile pieces are now gone. The monks designed later crosses with shorter arms.
There are other excellent bits of sacred art, including two other high crosses and a collection of grave slabs. If you’re a fan of medieval or Celtic art, you’ll probably like this museum.
How to Get to Iona Abbey
Iona Abbey is on the small Isle of Iona close to the Isle of Mull and to Oban on the mainland. Once you’re on the island, the abbey is about a 10 minute walk from the ferry landing.
For folks on whirlwind tours through Scotland, the easiest way to reach Iona is by booking a day tour from Oban. West Coast Tours offers a tour to the isles of Mull and Iona that includes a round trip journey on the Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) ferries plus bus rides to get from one side of Mull to the other. It’s about $65. You can also book a Three Isles Tour that adds in a trip to the magical isle of Staffa for $110 total.
If you’re staying longer or want to DIY your trip, you can book ferry tickets directly with CalMac. The ferry to Iona is on the western tip of Mull in Fionnphort. Visitors are not allowed to bring cars to tiny Iona, but drivers can park at the pay lot near the ferry. You can also reach the ferry via bus. Check out West Coast Motors for routes and times.
Tips for Visiting Iona Abbey
- The abbey is open 9:30-5:30, shorter hours in the off season November-March, and closed during Sunday service from 10:15-11:45. Details here.
- Admission is about $12 USD and includes a great audioguide.
- If you’re coming on a tour, keep an eye on your time. You probably won’t have time to see everything. Head to the abbey right away, see what you like, and visit any shops or sights along the road on your way back to the ferry.
- But DO go to the museum. It’s a small collection presented well. Even a quick peek at the original St. John’s Cross fragments is worth it.
- If you’re visiting a lot of historic sites across Scotland, consider buying a 7-day Explorer Pass or an annual membership to Historic Scotland. Big sites like Stirling Castle are included, just make sure to reserve your entry time.
Want to read more about Scotland? Check out my recent trip report here!
