The Isle of Skye is an amazingly beautiful corner of Scotland. With jagged mountains and sloping green hills that tumble toward the sea, Skye’s misty landscapes have an almost irresistible pull for travelers. For many of us though, Skye is just one part of a longer tour through Scotland. We stay for a night, or maybe just make a day trip there. So, how can a time-crunched traveler enjoy a visit to this majestic isle? Let’s discuss in this Skye travel guide.
Isle of Skye Overview
The Isle of Skye is the largest of the Inner Hebrides islands, stretching 50 miles from end-to-end. If you’re short on time, your best bet is to focus on the most dramatically scenic area: the Trotternish Peninsula. This northern tip of Skye is home to the mystical mountain landscapes and sweeping coastal views that make Skye such an unforgettable place.
Base yourself in the main town of Portree or nearby. Portree makes an ideal hub for visitors, with plenty of amenities and places to stay. More on that below.
If you have more time, you can venture beyond the Trotternish Peninsula to explore sights like Dunvegan Castle and the famous Talisker Distillery.
Getting Around the Isle of Skye
When you’re visiting Skye, you’ll want a car. All the main sights are easily reached by car, and it’s an incredibly scenic drive filled with places to stop and walk a bit.
To get to Skye from Glasgow and other points south, you have a couple options. You can take the ferry at Mallaig and drive up the length of Skye, or you can drive north to take the Skye Bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh. If you’re coming from Inverness or elsewhere in the north, the bridge will be your easiest option.
In Trotternish, a main road circles the whole peninsula and goes through Portree. It’s partly A87 and partly A855, but you won’t have any trouble sticking to it. Much of the route is single lane, so take your time and pass with care.
See below for more driving tips.
Portree
The town of Portree makes a great home base, but you’ll want to visit this lovely port town no matter where you’re staying. It’s well worth taking a stroll around town to see the harbor and check out the selection of shops and eateries. A few recommendations:
- Cafe Arriba – sandwiches, quick bites, coffee
- Harbour Fish and Chips – simple and tasty place for, well, fish and chips
- Mackenzie’s Bakery– top-notch coffee and donuts in the center of town
- Isle of Sky Baking Co. – great bakery with an impressive amount of gluten free items
- Chargrill Restaurant – a fantastic dining experience for a fancy dinner out
Be warned that Portree can get quite crowded during peak times, so plan ahead. Reservations for dinner are recommended. For parking, there’s a convenient lot in the main square and a less convenient but much larger car park down the hill. It’s off of Bridge Road just before you reach the town.
Trotternish Peninsula Highlights
If you have only one day on Skye, the best thing to do is spend a full day making a circuit around the Trotternish Peninsula. I recommend starting in Portree and driving counter-clockwise to reach scenic points early in the day. But if you plan on hiking, do that first and pick up the rest of the loop afterward. You can check out Rick Steves’ guidebook if you want a more detailed description of this incredible drive.
The Old Man of Storr
The Storr is probably the most popular hike on Skye, famous for the iconic rock pinnacle known as the “Old Man.” It’s a steep 3-mile hike, but you’ll be rewarded with incredible views. Like many hikes on the island, you’ll see a helpful trail information sign with a map at the beginning of the trail. (Disclaimer: I didn’t actually do this hike—I did the Quiriang instead.)
Lealt Falls Viewpoint
Less of a hiking challenge is Lealt Falls. There’s a viewpoint just beyond the car park to see this slightly hidden waterfall. If you continue a short way along the path, you’ll find a viewpoint overlooking the sea.
Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls
A broad sea cliff face that looks a bit like a kilt! Even better, there’s a waterfall that plunges dramatically from the cliff. Make sure to stop for this incredible view just a short way off of the road.
If you’re looking for restrooms or a bite to eat, head a bit further north to the Staffin Community Hall and Shop nearby.
The Quiriang
Ok, this one isn’t along the circle route, but it’s worth the detour. Follow the signs to reach the wild middle of the island and the spectacular landslip area known as the Quiriang. The path winds over hills and rocks along a towering plateau at the center of the Trotternish. The full loop is 4.2 miles over somewhat steep terrain, but even a short out-and-back walk is very much worthwhile. The views of the rocky pinnacles and sloping green hills are otherworldly.
Duntulm Castle
The ruins of Duntulm Castle perch on a dramatic outcropping near the northern tip of the Trotternish. There’s not much to see of the castle itself, but the view toward the Isles of Lewis and Harris is impressive.
Skye Museum of Island Life
The Skye Museum of Island Life is a window into Skye’s past. Housed in a group of thatched cottages typical of a Highland village, the museum tells stories of the people of Skye. You’ll learn the story of Flora MacDonald, who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape after his defeat at the Battle of Culloden. The Prince famously disguised himself as Flora’s maid! The museum also proudly displays items from village life, from the blacksmith’s shop to the fisherman’s cottage.
The Fairy Glen
Another wonder of Trotternish geology, the hilly area known as the Fairy Glen features oddly sculpted hillsides of grass with waves formed by ages of erosion. You can find the trailhead by taking a smaller road just south of the village of Uig. The walk is fairly short with just a bit of a hill to climb up to the castle-like formation at the top.
Beyond the Trotternish: Dunvegan, Talisker, and More
The Trotternish Peninsula is only part of the Isle of Skye. If you have more time, venture south and check out these highlights.
Dunvegan Castle
The home of Clan MacCleod was first fortified in the 13th century but was updated several times through the mid-19th century. Today, you can tour Dunvegan Castle and it’s impressive gardens.
Talisker Distillery
The legendary Talker Distillery is a magnet for Scotch whisky enthusiasts. Talisker makes a distinctive whisky that has notes of smoke and sea air. Tours and tastings are available, but be sure to book ahead. They can fill up weeks or even months in advance.
The Fairy Pools
If you’re looking for one more picture-perfect hike, head to the Fairy Pools. An easy 2 mile walk will lead you to a magical glen filled with waterfalls and pools. Not to be confused with the Fairy Glen above.
Tips for Driving on Skye
- Single lane roads on Skye can be an adventure. Also known as “single track” roads, they require some etiquette for passing. Basically, you will see an oncoming vehicle approaching and have to find a place wide enough to pass. Sometimes these spots are marked with a “passing place” sign. Whoever is closer to a passing place should wait there for the other vehicle to pass. It’s also fine to wait at a passing place to allow faster drivers going in your direction to pass.
- Basic road markings are pretty simple. You’ll see a single white line if there is two-way travel. No line for single track.
- Watch out for sheep. There are a lot of them around Skye.
- Fueling up in Scotland is similar to America. You’ll generally pump the fuel first and then pay inside. There’s a filling station near Portree along the A87 and another in Uig on the northwest side of the peninsula.
Other Tips for Visiting Skye
- Hike early or late to beat the crowds. Some of the hikes on Skye are incredibly popular, and the trailhead parking can fill up. Plan your hikes first thing in the morning or wait until late afternoon if possible.
- The weather on Skye is always variable. Rain and clouds are common, but conditions can shift a lot throughout the day. Dressing in layers is a must. Pack rain gear and good shoes to make sure you’re prepared!
- Dinner reservations are also a must during peak times. When I visited Portree, I must have overheard a dozen people complaining that there was nowhere to eat.
- Resist the urge to rush around. Skye is a magical, beautiful place, but you have to get out of your car and walk a bit to really appreciate it.
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