In the distance, you see a tiny island of black rock *cue dramatic music.* Your boat closes in and the land looks odd, like a wall of columns carved from stone. In the sheer cliff face is an even darker void of black, a cave battered by waves. And on the other side of the Isle of Staffa are…adorable puffins?
The Isle of Staffa is a magical place along Scotland’s western coast. It’s a tiny island famous for two things: 1) a dramatic sea cave called Fingal’s Cave and 2) a colony of Atlantic Puffins. It takes time to get there, but it’s well worth the effort to see a truly unique place. Staffa was absolutely one of the highlights of my recent trip to Scotland.
If you’re ready to plan your boat tour to Staffa, you can skip to the “how to” section and tips below. Otherwise, read on.
History of Isle of Staffa
Staffa was formed millions of years ago, when volcanic lava cooled into black basalt rock. One of the layers cooled slower than others and formed vertical, mostly hexagonal columns. If you’ve ever heard of the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, Staffa is the opposite end of the same formation.
The name “Staffa” comes from the Vikings’ word for “stave” or “pillar,” since the island looked like the wooden staves used to construct their houses. Approaching from the west, you’ll see these pillars standing like a forest of columns or the pipes of a giant organ.
Staffa became famous in the 19th century, when writers like Sir Walter Scott and William Wordsworth visited this natural wonder and wrote about what they saw. The composer Felix Mendelssohn even wrote an orchestral overture inspired by the island called The Hebrides.
Today, the island is managed by the National Trust for Scotland.
Fingal’s Cave
What inspired the Romantic era writers and composers most was the island’s largest cave, called Fingal’s Cave. It looks more like the Batcave or Superman’s fortress of solitude than a real place made by nature. It’s about 70 feet high and goes more than 200 feet into the rocky face of the island. The bottom is open to the sea, where waves from the Atlantic crash and echo in the darkness.
You can hike around to Fingal’s Cave from the boat jetty. It takes about 10 min, depending on how slowly you make your way over the uneven rocks. Only the entrance to the cave is accessible.
So who is Fingal? Fingal is writer James Macpherson’s interpretation of the Irish mythological hero Fionn mac Cumhaill (“Finn McCool”). The story goes that Fionn clashed with a Scottish giant named Benandoner, who destroyed the bridge after their meeting.
Atlantic Puffin Colony
If dark and mysterious caves aren’t your thing, how about friendly seabirds? The Isle of Staffa makes a perfect home for Atlantic Puffins, who hang out on the grassy top of the island from mid April to early August each year.
In case you’ve never seen a puffin before, they’re sort of like small penguins that can fly. They are black and white with a colorful beak they use to catch fish. Very cute. Puffins are excellent swimmers, but they look much less graceful waddling around on land.
Once on Staffa, you’ll hike a short way to the puffin colony. Dozens of the birds hang out together, making trips back and forth to the ocean below. You may even see them popping in and out of burrows. It’s an amazing scene!
On Staffa, the puffins aren’t really scared of people. They know that predators like seagulls stay away when people are nearby, so the birds don’t mind visitors staying to watch them. That said, be sure not to get too close to the puffins because it can cause them stress.
How to Get to Isle of Staffa
Staffa is a tiny, uninhabited island 7 miles from the Isle of Mull. You can get there on a tour with one of the local operators, which leave from Oban on the mainland or the nearby isles of Mull or Iona.
From Oban
I went with the Three Isles Tour from West Coast Tours leaving from Oban. They organize a full day of sightseeing, starting with a ferry from Oban to Mull and a bus across the island to Fionnphort. There, you’ll join up with a smaller boat to see Staffa and Iona. Iona is home to a famous medieval abbey that’s definitely worth a visit. (The smaller boats are operated by Staffa Tours, so you’ll see the same Three Isles Tour offered on their website.)
For wildlife enthusiasts, West Coast Tours also runs tours out to the Treshnish Isles and Staffa. The Trenish Isles are a group of small islands even farther out in the north Atlantic, home to vast numbers of seabirds like puffins, guillemots, and razorbills. Browse the website to see all your tour options.
From Mull or Iona
If you’re coming from Mull or, you can book a tour directly though Staffa Tours or another operator. Tours on Mull leave from Tobermory or from Fionnphort on the western end of the island. If you’re staying on Iona, you can book a tour departing from the ferry port.
Tips for Visiting Isle of Staffa
- Staffa will be closed August to October 2023 for a renovation of the stairs and jetty. Check out the National Trust for Scotland website for updates.
- It’s best to visit between mid-April and early August when the puffins are around
- Dress in layers and bring a raincoat. The weather on Staffa is variable. The boats that go there are small, so the possibility of getting wet is much higher than on the ferries.
- Bring binoculars. The area is home to lots of seabirds and other wildlife you can spot!
- The paths are a bit rugged and uneven, especially the path to Fingal’s Cave. Wear good shoes and give yourself time to navigate them.
- Dogs are not allowed on Staffa.
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