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San Juan is a city like no other. It’s the capital of Puerto Rico, a major cultural hub, and the oldest city within United States territory. You can walk down cobblestone lanes to a Spanish colonial fort and swim at a warm Caribbean beach in the same day. Then there’s the food, the rum, etc. As you’ll see in this San Juan travel guide, it’s easy to have a great trip there.
I visited San Juan on a short trip for my friends’ wedding. In just a few days, I was able to see a lot and get a feel for the city. Here’s what I can tell you about things to do, where to stay, and a few general tips for visiting.
Overview
The city of San Juan traces its origins back to 1508 when the conquistador Juan Ponce de León arrived with his soldiers. It was the perfect spot for a settlement, with a large bay and a hilly island to protect it. Ponce de León established a stronghold that became hugely beneficial to Spain’s empire in the New World and very bad for the indigenous Taino people who were essentially enslaved.
The island and the city traded names over the years so that Puerto Rico (“rich port”) eventually became the name of the whole island and San Juan (“St. John”) became the name of the city.
If you’re wondering how Puerto Rico came to be part of the United States, that would be the Spanish-American War. Spain held its fortified city for hundreds of years, but their rule came to an end in 1898 when the United States Navy arrived and won control. The island has been a US territory ever since.
Key Areas of San Juan
Today, San Juan sprawls beyond the old town and on to the mainland. A few key areas to know if you’re visiting for the first time:
- Old San Juan – the colonial city of San Juan is actually on the eastern end of a small island. With amazing architecture and an excellent food scene, this part of the city should be high on your list.
- Puerta de Tierra – the other half of Old San Juan’s small island, Puerta de Tierra is a neighborhood where you’ll find the main square, Plaza Colón, as well as San Juan’s cruise port.
- Condado – a long stretch of beachfront with many high-rise hotels just east of Puerta de Tierra. If you want to stay at a beach resort, this neighborhood is for you!
- Santurce – a lively neighborhood and vibrant arts district south of Condado that’s a major cultural hub of modern San Juan
Things to Do in San Juan
Walking Tours
This may be a controversial take, but I think #1 thing you should do in San Juan is go on a walking tour. The city has a fascinating, beautiful, sometimes tragic history. From its era as a Spanish colony to its growth into a modern city, you can see parts of every era of Old San Juan just strolling around.
A few companies offer walking tours, which I think is the best option to actually learn something. I went with this tour by Flavors of San Juan. Our guide showed us around the old city walls and pointed out where the gates of the city used to be (there is one you can walk through!). We heard interesting stories, like how the US military set up a golf course around El Morro fort.
A word of advice: be prepared to walk! Old San Juan is deceptively hilly.
Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro)
Old San Juan is home to two large Spanish forts, and Castillo San Felipe del Morro is the more exciting of the two. It’s often called “El Morro” (the promontory) after the rocky point on which it was built. It’s a must-see if you’re a history nerd like me!
Construction on the original fort began in the early 1500s, but most of the towering fortifications you see today were built in the 1700s. El Morro once housed dozens of cannons that stood guard over the bay and threatened any incoming ships. Sentries kept watch from a network of garitas, the tiny guard boxes built into the walls that have become a symbol of San Juan.
Besides the structure itself, you’ll also see a great set of exhibits about the fort, and you’ll enjoy some outstanding views. Admission is $10 USD, which also gets you into nearby Castillo San Cristóbal.
Castillo San Cristóbal
Old San Juan’s other fort is actually the larger of the two. In fact, Castillo San Cristóbal is the biggest fort ever constructed in Spain’s New World colonies. It was built in the 18th century to help defend the city from land attacks.
The exhibits at Castillo San Cristóbal aren’t quite as extensive as El Morro’s, and much of the sprawling fort is closed off to visitors. That said, the views of San Juan are amazing. Admission is covered under the same ticket as El Morro for $10 USD. It’s a 24-hour ticket, so you could see one fort earlier the next day if it fits your itinerary better.
Cathedral of San Juan Bautista
Founded in 1521, the Cathedral of San Juan Bautista is one of the oldest churches in the Americas. To give a point of reference, that’s about 100 years before the Pilgrims came to Massachusetts! The cathedral’s high vaulted interior is lovely, and it doesn’t take long to visit if you’re in the neighborhood. Inside, you’ll also find the tomb of Ponce de Leon, the conquistador who helped establish San Juan. Admission is free but donations of a few dollars are encouraged.
Beaches
Enough about history–let’s talk beaches! Puerto Rico is a Caribbean island, after all. The beaches in San Juan may not be the best the island has to offer, but there are some wonderful places to enjoy the sun and sand.
- Balneario El Escambrón (Escambron Beach) – centrally located in Puerta de Tierra, Balneario El Escambrón is the perfect beach to visit if you’re staying in Old San Juan.
- Playita del Condado (Little Condado Beach) – tucked away next to the Condado Plaza Hotel is a little beach that’s great for swimming or lounging. This public beach is protected from the strong surf that hits the north side of Condado.
- Condado Beach – a long crescent of sand lined with hotels, Condado Beach is lovely to look at but NOT suitable for swimming due to strong rip currents.
- Isla Verde Beach – farther east from Condado is another resort-lined beach that’s generally good for swimming and other activities.
Art Museums
San Juan’s impressive art scene covers everything from Spanish colonial treasures to modern artists. Here are a few places to check out:
- Museo de Las Americas – a museum of arts and archaeology located in Cuartel de Ballajá, the former military barracks near El Morro. It focuses on history and culture, but there is plenty of art in the collection. Admission is $6 USD. Closed Mon-Tues.
- Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico – the foremost art museum of Puerto Rico. Located in Santurce, it brings together fine art of different eras. Admission is $12 USD. Closed Mon-Tues.
- Fundación Cortés Gallery – a hidden gem of a gallery in an unlikely location above the chocolate -focused restaurant Chocobar Cortes. The gallery features contemporary artists of the Caribbean and Latin America. Admission is free.
Cocktail Bars
Old San Juan has an exciting cocktail scene that blends traditions with new trends. The piña colada was invented in Puerto Rico, so that’s always a good option. In fact, you can’t really go wrong with rum in general. Bacardi is Puerto Rico’s biggest distillery, but I’d opt for Don Q or the delicious Ron del Barrilito for more refined rum drinks.
For bars in Old San Juan, I can recommend: The Mezzanine (classic cocktail bar), La Factoria (multi-room speakeasy with outstanding cocktails), La Cubanita (casual bar attached to La Factoria), or El Batey (colorful and cave-like dive bar).
The food scene is amazing too! Make sure to check out these fantastic restaurants when you visit San Juan.
Day Trips from San Juan
Snorkeling
I like snorkeling. If there’s an opportunity to go snorkeling wherever I’m traveling, I’m definitely interested. Though San Juan doesn’t offer much in the immediate vicinity, there are a few excellent spots you can reach as a day trip.
Culebra and Vieques are two smaller islands off the coast of Puerto Rico’s main island. Both offer incredible beaches and beautiful coral reefs that are perfect for snorkeling. On my trip, I wanted to go to Culebra but ended up going to Vieques due to weather conditions. I think the plan for reaching either island is essentially the same though.
Tours to reach the snorkeling spots leave from Fajardo, a city at the eastern tip of Puerto Rico. If you have a rental car, it’s a little over an hour to drive there from San Juan. Some of the tour operators also offer bus transportation for an extra fee.
I went with East Island Excursions. We headed to picturesque La Chiva Beach on the island of Vieques, which has great snorkeling very close to shore.
El Yunque Rainforest
Did you know Puerto Rico is home to a tropical rainforest? El Yunque is a world of green foliage, sparkling waterfalls, and unique biodiversity. On my trip I really only had time for one day trip, but El Yunque is another option you can reach easily from San Juan.
If you have a car, you can self guide your trip to El Yunque. It’s part of the US National Forest System. Stop by El Portal de El Yunque, the main visitor center where you can learn about the forest and get information on trails. The are also tours operating out of San Juan.
Getting Around San Juan
By car– To rent a car or not? This is a key question for your trip to San Juan. Driving in Old San Juan is a challenge with narrow streets and lots of traffic. That said, a car is the most convenient if your heading to the beach, on day trips, etc. Consider how much of your trip will be spent in Old San Juan and decide accordingly.
Uber and taxis- Both Uber and taxis are easy to come by in San Juan, and the rates are pretty affordable. It’s around $20 USD to get from the airport to Old San Juan. $10 USD will get you between most places in town. Taxis have set fares, while Uber prices fluctuate based on demand.
Walking– Old San Juan is best explored on foot. It’s compact but quite hilly, so bring good walking shoes.
Bus– Public buses in San Juan are cheap but not really an efficient way to get around. Information on bus routes is tricky to access. If you’re set on saving money, try checking Google maps for route information.
Where to Stay in San Juan
San Juan is a big city with many neighborhoods, but I would focus on two areas if you’re visiting for the first time.
Old San Juan– Beautiful, romantic, vibrant, San Juan’s old town is a really special place. Immerse yourself in the walkable world of Old San Juan’s historic buildings and excellent restaurants by staying in the neighborhood. Hotel rooms there are in demand, so book early.
Condado– If you’d prefer to stay in a nice hotel by the beach, Condado is your best bet. It’s a short drive across the bridge from Old San Juan, so it’s easy to get between the two areas. There are high-rise outposts for most of the major hotel chains there.
Where to Eat in Old San Juan
Food in Puerto Rico is excellent, and it’s a big enough subject to deserve its own post. If you’re headed to San Juan, check out this post for the best restaurants you need to try!
There are more than a few local specialties worth the trip. To name a few: pernil, the slow roasted pork of your dreams; tostones, highly addictive fried plantain snacks that go with everything; arroz con gandules a dish of rice and pigeons peas that surprisingly packs a ton of flavor.
Read the full list of must-try restaurants in San Juan from guest writer Sean.
On my trip, I basically only tried restaurants in Old San Juan. A few of my favorite places to eat were:
- Deaverdura – casual restaurant featuring Puerto Rican classics
- Princesa Cocina Cultura – gastrobar serving elevated versions of traditional favorites
- Café Caleta – coffeeshop/restaurant/wine bar that serves up international food
- Chocobar Cortes – a cafe where the breakfast, lunch, and dessert menus are all inspired by chocolate
- Caficultura – creative breakfast cafe right on the square at Plaza Colón
- Señor Paleta – unique shop serving artisanal ice pops and ice cream pops
Tips for Visiting San Juan
- When to visit– Puerto Rico has a warm climate year round, but the best time to visit is December through May. June to November is hurricane season, with the peak risk of hurricanes and tropical storms in August to September.
- Time zone– Puerto Rico is on Atlantic Standard time, which is 1 hour ahead of the eastern US.
- United States territory– Puerto Rico is a US territory, so yes everything is in US dollars. And you can fly there without a passport. (Just make sure your state ID is up to current requirements.)
- Spanish vs English– The predominant language in Puerto Rico is Spanish, however most people in San Juan speak conversational English. If you’re sticking with typical tourist activities, there’s no need to worry about the language barrier.
- Areas to avoid- Avoid wandering down into La Perla. This seaside area by Old San Juan looks interesting, but the neighborhood has problems with drugs and violence. Also, Santurce is a cool neighborhood to visit during the day, but avoid walking around at night.
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