The Scottish Highlands are quintessential Scotland. Misty mountain scenery, bagpipes echoing through the glens, romantic castles dotting the landscape–the best of Scotland is there. Also those adorable cows! You’ll find it all in this Scotland itinerary.
The itinerary is based on an actual trip I did with my wife, starting in Glasgow, then driving up through the Highlands and islands, and finishing in Inverness. Glasgow is technically not the Highlands, but it’s a perfect place to start and an underrated city.
No Edinburgh on this itinerary? Not this time. Edinburgh is the most popular destination in Scotland, and with good reason. If you have a few more days, you could definitely add the Scottish capital to you trip.
Ready to go? You can skip ahead to Day 1 here.
Intro to the Scottish Highlands
First, let’s get the terminology straight. The Highlands are a geographical area of Scotland that lie northwest of the Highland Boundary Fault, which cuts through the country just north of the major cities of Glasgow and Edinburgh. This includes the Hebrides Islands off the western coast.
Historically speaking, the Highlands were a rugged place somewhat isolated from other areas of Scotland. This led to a distinctive culture and, at times, political tension with the rest of the country. Even today, the Highlands are sparsely populated. Outside of the towns, you’ll see more sheep than people.
The Highlands are famous for their traditional culture, which includes everything from kilts to Scotch whisky. They’re also home to the highest mountains in the British Isles, which make for some truly epic natural landscapes.
You can skip to the itinerary now if you want.
Do You Need a Car to Visit the Highlands?
Short answer: it depends. For this fast-paced itinerary, yes, you need a car. It will allow you to reach out-of-way places quickly and easily, plus you can adjust your schedule instead of being tied to a train schedule. (Don’t worry about driving on the left. Check out my driving tips below and you’ll be navigating the roundabouts with ease.)
If you want to use trains and buses, that’s doable. Public transportation in Scotland is good, but it will slow down your timeline. Traveline Scotland is a great resource for trip planning. Look at the main points of the itinerary below, skip over the road trip parts, and adjust as needed.
10-Day Scottish Highlands Itinerary
This 10-day Scotland itinerary is pretty much what my wife and I did on our last trip, with a few adjustments based on our experience. You’ll start in Glasgow and make your way through the Highlands all the way to Inverness!
Day 1: Arrival in Glasgow
On your first day, get to know Glasgow with a walking tour of the city center. You can join up with a guided walk or use a self-guided option. For an easy option, simply walk along the “Golden Z” centered on Buchanan Street and take in the scene.
If you have time, add in a bit of sightseeing at the National Piping Center for an introduction to Scotland’s famous bagpipe tradition. Or you can head to the West End neighborhood and stroll through the botanic gardens.
Later on, find a pub to enjoy a pint or a wee dram of whisky. Personally, I would go with whisky. Welcome to Scotland!
Day 2: Glasgow
Make the most of your day by taking the hop-on hop-off sightseeing bus. It runs a convenient loop around the City Center and the West End that will get you to most of the places you want.
Start by hopping off at Glasgow Cathedral, a medieval cathedral that survived the Reformation with some interesting changes over the years. Next to the cathedral is the Necropolis, a hilltop graveyard from the 19th century.
Glasgow has plenty of museums to pick from but my pick would be the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. Focus on the art side to find some excellent galleries based around Scotland and Scottish artists. If art isn’t your thing consider the Riverside Museum, a museum about the history of transportation.
In the evening, find a place along Byres Road in the West End for dinner.
Day 3: Stirling Castle and Argyll Scenic Drive (Glasgow to Oban)
Pick up a car and take the M80 motorway to Stirling to visit one of Scotland’s greatest castles. For centuries, Stirling Castle guarded one of the main routes into the Highlands, making it an important stronghold during conflicts. It was also the opulent royal home of the Stuart dynasty, so give yourself at least a couple hours to explore.
After Stirling, take the scenic route towards Oban starting along the A811. Set your navigation to the town of Inverary, and you’ll pass through beautiful country along the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond (take A82 to A83). Inverary is a picturesque little town on Loch Fyne that makes a good place to stop.
Continue on to Oban, the famous “gateway to the isles.” Take a walk along the promenade to enjoy the view of the harbor, and make sure you’re all set to find the ferry terminal for your next day’s adventure.
Day 4: Oban and the Isles
Today is all about the isles! Book the Three Isles Tour from West Coast Tours for a full day of amazing scenery, wildlife, and even some history.
To start off, you’ll take a ferry from Oban to the Isle of Mull, then a bus across the island. The scenery on Mull is dramatic as you ride around Ben More (“ben” means “mountain” in Scots).
Next, you’ll board a small boat headed for the Isle of Staffa. The tiny island is a wonder, with its famous sea cave and puffin colony. I loved watching the puffins march around their cliff-side home. So cute!
Isle number three is Iona, where early Christian monks started an abbey way back in 563 AD. The abbey was a sacred place where the early Scottish kings were buried. You can still see some of the beautiful high crosses carved from granite.
Visiting all three isles in one day is a marathon of sightseeing, but it’s totally worth it.
Day 5: Oban and the Isles
After a big day touring the isles, take things easy and pick an activity based on your energy level. You could head to Dunollie Castle and see the ruins of an early medieval castle set among lovely gardens. Or you could hike up to McCaig’s Tower, the odd Victorian monument that overlooks Oban like an unfinished Colosseum.
My pick was seeing more wildlife on another boat tour. I went with Seafari Adventures in Easdale, but there are tours leaving directly from Oban as well.
For the afternoon book a tour of Oban Distillery. The distillery was founded in 1794, and they continue the tradition of making excellent Scotch whisky today. It’s located conveniently in the middle of town. (Remember: no driving after whisky tasting.)
Day 6: Highlands Road Trip: Oban to Skye
Next it’s time to head farther north towards the Isle of Skye. It’s a 3.5 to 4 hour drive, but the scenery is gorgeous.
Along the way, stop in Glencoe for one Scotland’s most beloved landscapes. Start at the visitor center to get your bearings and take in the views of the glen. If you have time, there are some wonderful short hikes in the area.
From Glencoe, you have your choice of driving to Mallaig and taking the ferry or driving further north to take the Skye Bridge. Either way, set your navigation for Skye’s main town of Portree.
Ideally, you’ll have some time to explore the town before settling in for the night. Great food options abound, but beware that places in Portree can get very busy!
Day 7: Isle of Skye
Spend the day exploring the misty realm of Skye’s Trotternish Peninsula. If you’re starting in Portree, head north and plan to make a lot of stops. You’ll pass a wonderland of rock formations and waterfalls that are well worth stopping for as you make the circuit around the main road. Pack a lunch to make the most of your time.
Along the way, stop for a short hike. There are many options like the Old Man of Storr or the Quiriang. There are good signs that describe the routes and distances.
Another great stop is the Skye Museum of Island Life, where you’ll see traditional thatched cottages filled with artifacts that show what life was like in an 18th century Highland village.
Day 8: Skye to Inverness w/Loch Ness
If you long to see a bit more of Skye, get up early for one last hike before setting off toward the mainland. The Fairy Pools, maybe? Drive across the Skye Bridge and set your navigation for Urquhart Castle on the western side of Loch Ness.
Urquhart Castle is a ruined castle with dramatic views of the loch. Signs help you imagine what this mighty castle looked like hundreds of years ago. The views are wonderful whether you’re taking Instagram photos or searching for the legendary Loch Ness monster. Fans of Nessie can also stop at the Loch Ness Center to learn more.
Next, head north along the loch to Inverness, the city whose name literally means “mouth of the River Ness.” Your main priority for the evening should be to see what traditional music is playing. Try Hootananny or Macgregor’s to find a toe-tapping good time.
Day 9: Inverness
Start your day heading out to Culloden Battlefield, the site of the last battle fought on British soil. Culloden was a historical turning point where the last rebellious Jacobite rising of 1745 failed and led to a period of persecution in the Scottish Highlands. It’s a big deal.
You could also drive out to Clava Cairns, a site with several prehistoric burial cairns. The site was the inspiration for the stone circle in the Outlander TV series.
In the afternoon, return to Inverness. I highly recommend going on a tour with Inverness Bike Tours for a spin along the Ness Islands, the Caledonian Canal, and around town. You could also explore the city center on your own. Don’t miss Leaky’s Bookshop and its amazing selection of secondhand books!
In the evening, you’ll have another chance to find traditional music.
Day 10: Depart Inverness
I always seem to end up with an early flight, but hopefully you have time for a leisurely breakfast and a bit more time in Inverness.
Head down to the beautiful Ness Islands and/or Inverness Botanic Gardens for a walk. Soak in the beauty of the Highlands one last time before it’s time to leave.
Driving in Scotland
Driving in Scotland is not much different from driving in the US or EU, but here are few tips to help you drive with confidence. Full disclosure: I did not drive in Scotland. I’m usually the navigator when my wife drives, so I asked her what was most important to know.
Getting Started
Driving on the left is easy once you get used to it. Cars in Scotland have the wheel on the right side of the vehicle, which helps drivers make the switch. The most confusing part is making a right hand turn across lanes of traffic, which requires making a much wider turn than us right-side drivers normally do.
Don’t drive in the city. Trust me, you’ll have much more frustration in the city than out on the open roads of the countryside. Rent your car for only the non-city part of your trip. If you’re picking up a car in the city center, ask for the easiest way to get on to the motorway.
On the Open Road
Single lane roads in Scotland can be a bit of a challenge. Known as “single track” roads, they require some etiquette for passing. Basically, you will eventually see an oncoming vehicle approaching and have to find a place wide enough to pass. Sometimes these spots are marked with a “passing place” sign. Whoever is closer to a passing place should wait there for the other vehicle to pass. If you’re nervous about it, try to observe how it works while riding in a bus. And don’t park in the passing places–drivers need them for passing!
Basic road markings are pretty simple. You’ll see a single white line if there is two-way travel. No line for single track. Speed limits are not always marked, Usually it’s 60 mph in the countryside, but don’t feel compelled to drive that fast! Plan some extra time for your drives and stick to a safe speed.
Traffic circles are very common. Pay attention to the sign before you enter, as it will have a detailed diagram of the various exits you can take. If you are unsure which exit you need, it’s ok to drive around once and read all the signs.
Fueling up in Scotland is similar to America. We call it gas, they called it petrol. The main difference is that you’ll generally pump the fuel first and then pay inside. Filling stations can be far apart in rural areas, so don’t wait to stop.
If you feel like you need more information, there’s a good section about driving Rick Steves’s guidebook.
Tips for Visiting Scotland
Buy advance tickets. From museums to spots on a tour, online tickets with specific time slots are now required for many places. Don’t waste time standing in lines or waiting for an open spot!
Get dinner reservations. This surprised me. If you want to have dinner at decent restaurant, a lot of places fill up with reservations these days. Booking the day before or even the same day is usually fine, unless you’re trying to get into a really popular spot. Check with your hotel if you need help.
Allow time for driving. Driving in the Highlands means driving on small, winding roads. Don’t expect to maintain the maximum speed. Also, the scenery is incredible so, there is a frequent temptation to stop and take in the view.
Understand GBP and USD conversions. As of mid-2023, the British pound (GBP) is worth about 1.3 US dollars (USD). That means the prices in GBP are higher than they would be in USD. I usually make a note of the conversion rate before I leave so I can quickly multiply by 1.3 or whatever the current rate is. (Yes, there’s a way to do it in your head, but that stresses me out and I have an iPhone.)
Tipping in Scotland – It’s customary to 10% for good restaurant service, although a few places add a service charge on your bill already. And tip a few pounds to your taxi/Uber drivers.
It’s ok to slow down and go easy on the sightseeing. On a whirlwind trip to Scotland, it’s tempting to try and fill every moment with some memorable experience. That is asking a lot of your personal energy supply, though. Pace yourself. Leave some empty space in your day. There is no prize for doing the most things on your vacation!
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