As I’m setting up this new blog, I’m reflecting on recent trips that have inspired me. Traveling to Turkey last fall felt like the furthest I’ve been away from home, in a cultural sense if not strictly in a geographical sense. The ancient sites were incredible too, really bringing to life the world of the ancient Greeks and Romans.
The Aegean Coast
I joined up with a group tour in Istanbul (G Adventures “Best of Turkey” tour), and we headed down the Aegean Coast in a big van. We saw the battlegrounds of Gallipoli, somber but powerful places. It’s hard to imagine the horrible trench warfare campaign of 1915, where both sides dug in for months.
We also visited the site of ancient Troy. Yes, that’s the city of the original Trojan horse, where Greek attackers are said to have made a giant wooden horse to sneak inside the city. But also no, the giant horse thing probably isn’t a real historical thing that happened. Sorry!
As we made our way along the mythical coast, it was fun to explore the cities of Canakkale and Ayvalik. The cities have a Mediterranean feel, but they also feel consistently Turkish. Restaurants serve fresh grilled fish alongside shish kebabs. I thought kebabs were just a stereotype of Turkish food, but it turns out they’re really popular and come in many tasty varieties.
Tea, Wine, Coffee
Leaving the coast, we headed to Bergama to see the ruins of the Red Basilica and the Pergamon acropolis. Ancient ruins, we shall see, are basically the theme for this entire trip. The Red Basilica was a Roman temple to some Egyptian gods. Later, it was converted into a church, then a mosque…it’s complicated. The ruins of Pergamon are very scenic, with more Roman temple ruins and a theater overlooking the valley.
The town of Bergama seemed less tourist-heavy than other places in western Turkey. We stopped for lunch at a very local place and stayed for a glass of tea. Tea is another thing that’s really popular in Turkey, always strong and served in beautiful little glasses.
Next, we side-tripped to Sirince, a mountain village basically known for making wine. Free wine samples! Woo! And lots of souvenir shops, but it was fun nonetheless. We also stopped for some Turkish coffee, which is traditionally brewed in a little metal pot heated in a tray of hot sand.
A Once Great City
We settled into nearby Selcuk, our base for exploring even more ancient sites like the Basilica of St. John and the ruins of Ephesus. What I remember most about the town of Selcuk is hanging out at this cafe across from a lamp/jewelry store, drinking Efes beer (by far the most popular beer in Turkey) and chatting with my fellow travelers. Good times.
In a trip full of ancient sites, Ephesus was the greatest. It’s one of the best preserved corners of ancient Rome. Dozens of columns line grand marble streets, and scattered walls outline the buildings of a once great capital. You imagine what it would be like to walk though the city in its heyday. Bath houses, shops, a huge library, a massive theater–Ephesus must have been incredible! Now, it’s the domain of tourist groups and a collection of resident cats.
Greco-Roman Spa
After Ephesus we headed to Pamukkale and Heirapolis. It’s sort of two destinations in one. First, there’s the thermal pools, formed by ages of mineral-rich spring water flowing down the mountain and leaving white carbonate deposits. The water gathers into turquoise blue pools that descend like huge stair steps down towards the valley below. They pools were crowded with tourists, but still beautiful.
Second, there’s the ancient Greek/Roman ruins. The Greeks built a spa that grew into a city, further expanded by the Romans. The ruins include some tombs and city gates, but the highlight is the massive Roman theater. Our guide did some smart planning and brought us up to the top of the theater around sunset. With the rows of stone seats stretching out below us and the sun sinking behind the mountains in the distance, it was truly an unforgettable scene.
Back to Istanbul
For the finale of our trip, we hopped a short flight back to Istanbul. It’s a huge city with many sights, so we tried to make the most out of our time. We dove into a torrent of sightseeing with the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and the Topkapi Palace all in one afternoon! It was a lot. I wouldn’t recommend rushing that much if you can avoid it. That night, I had one last dinner with my tour group before embarking on a final solo day in Istanbul.
With only one day left in Turkey, I knew I wanted to do a museum. I love museums! I went to the Istanbul Archaeological Museum which has some of the best preserved statues and objects from ancient sites in the region, including some places I visited earlier on the trip.
That afternoon, I left some time to wander the city. The streets were filled with travelers from all over the world, all browsing through markets or heading off towards historic places in town. Later, I hopped on a boat tour up the mighty Bosphorus Strait. And I watched another sunset, this time behind the minarets of old Istanbul. It’s really unlike any place I’ve ever been, and I fully plan to return someday.
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