There are few places where you feel like you’re walking the streets of a civilization that’s been gone for hundreds of years. But that’s exactly what the ancient city of Ephesus is like. It’s a massive archaeological site that immerses you in the world of the Romans. The marble streets, the rows of columns, the temples, all of them work together for a serious time-travel effect! You walk into the Great Theater and almost expect to see a crowd listening to an important speech or cheering on the gladiators.
Located in western Turkey today, Ephesus was one of the great cities of the ancient Mediterranean world. Quick history lesson: the city was founded by the Greeks, conquered by Alexander the Great, and expanded by the Romans. They made Ephesus the capital of the province of Asia, and it grew to be one of the largest cities in the Roman Empire. The Temple of Artemis that once stood there was one of the legendary Seven Wonders of the ancient world. Around 24,000 people could fit into the main theater. And the list goes on. Ephesus was in the same league as the cities of Constantinople and Rome itself. Lucky for us, there’s a lot from that age we can still see today!
Ephesus Facts
- Built by: Attic Greeks and Romans
- Time period: 400 BC – 300 AD
- Size: 550 acres
- Location: Selcuk, Türkiye
- Major features: marble streets, Library of Celsus, Great Theater
- Other names: Efes, Ephesos
Marble Streets
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The Romans built things to last, including the main roads of Ephesus. Huge blocks of marble paved the way for chariots to roll through town, passing rows of columns and statues. Along the main road, you can see the remnants of offices that once lined the Roman agora. Though the roofs are gone, many of them still have beautiful mosaic floors you can see today. It’s very luxurious for a ruin.
Library of Celsus
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At the bottom of the street is the Library of Celsus, the most iconic structure of Ephesus today. It’s named for a Roman governor who built the library, and it was one of the largest libraries of the Mediterranean world–up there with the Library of Alexandria. Two stories of ornate columns frame a facade that faces east to catch the morning light. You can imagine the toga-wearing citizens wandering through its elegant doorways, off to read some of the ancient scrolls.
Great Theater
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Down the street from the library is the Great Theater. What it may lack in elegant decoration, the theater makes up for in scale. It’s the size of a modern stadium, with over sixty rows of seats and space for around 24,000 spectators to watch events. What kind of events? The Greeks originally built the theater for things like drama, poetry, and public assemblies, but the Romans outfitted it for bigger spectacles like gladiator combat. Note: as of 2023, the theater is undergoing restoration work but it’s still open to visitors.
Ephesus Archaeological Museum
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After you’ve seen the majestic site, it’s worth a trip to the Ephesus Archaeological Museum to see some of the best preserved statues and other artifacts. The museum does a great job of helping you visualize where the artifacts came from, showing outlines of fountains, buildings, etc. You can see the famous Ephesian Artemis statues, which show a unique form of the Greco-Roman goddess. Unfortunately, some of the most beautiful statues from Ephesus are not at the museum, as they were taken to Vienna and London early in the 20th century. The museum is in the nearby town of Selcuk (see below).
How to Visit Ephesus
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The best home base for exploring the ancient city of Ephesus is the adjacent town of Selcuk, Türkiye, which is only a few minutes away by car. Staying nearby means it’s easy to visit Ephesus when the crowds are smaller at the beginning or end of the day. You can also make a day trip from nearby cities like Kusadasi or Izmir. Several companies operate tours with transportation from both cities ($50-100 USD).
Admission to the site is 200 lira ($11 USD) and the museum is 50 lira (less than $5). Both are open 8:00 am to 7:30 pm April to October, with shorter hours off season.
When visiting ancient ruins, I find it best to explore with a guide who can help bring the scene to life. But using a guide book could work too. You can check out Rick Steves’ free audio walking tour here.