The Borghese Gallery is Rome’s most important museum of Baroque Art and home to the greatest sculptures of Gian Lorenzo Bernini. If you want to see mythological figures locked in uber-dramatic poses, this is your spot. The museum itself it a work of art too, with the exquisitely decorated rooms providing a backdrop to the collection. It’s a fairly small museum that’s really popular, so make sure to book your tickets in advance and plan your visit.
History of the Borghese Gallery
The Borghese Gallery (Galleria Borghese) is named for the man who started its collection: Cardinal Scipione Borghese. In 1605, Borghese’s uncle became Pope Paul V and placed him in many important positions. (Back then the Pope was basically an elected king.) Soon Borghese became fabulously wealthy and began purchasing fine art to decorate his fancy new villa on the outskirts of Rome.
Enter our artist, Bernini. Around 1618, the Cardinal was impressed by the work of a young sculptor named Gian Lorenzo Bernini. He commissioned the artist to make several marble sculptures, and these commissions gave Bernini the opportunity to show off his skills in a big way. His sculptures captured a lifelike sense of movement, as if the figures were temporarily frozen in motion. And they were an instant hit with the Rome’s elites. Bernini quickly became the go-to sculptor and architect for the Popes, designing icons like the Four Rivers Fountain in Piazza Navona and major parts of St. Peter’s Basilica at the Vatican.
Bernini’s fame and fortune meant that he supervised an entire workshop. He worked with a team of artists to create his many works. You can’t expect one guy to redesign all of Rome by himself, right? That said, the works he did for Cardinal Borghese are some of his greatest masterpieces, largely executed by his own hand.
The Borghese Gallery Today
Today, the Borghese Gallery is a museum open to the public. In fact, the entire Villa Borghese grounds are now a public park as well. The museum is compact, with only two levels. Though you can see Bernini’s work all around Rome, the Borghese Gallery gives you the chance to see some of his masterpieces up close. You’ll also see a fine collection of baroque paintings, ancient sculpture, and more. The museum is popular, so make sure to get timed tickets well in advance of your visit (more on that below).
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Borghese Gallery Highlights
The Borghese Gallery is packs a lot of art into it’s small space! The main highlights are (1) Bernini’s major sculptures, (2) the decorated rooms themselves, and (3) the collection of Baroque paintings. Let’s discuss.
Bernini’s Sculptures
- Aeneas, Anchises, and Ascanius – Bernini’s first commission from Borghese is a life-size group depicting a story from the Aeneid. Aeneas and his family are fleeing the city of Troy, with Aeneas carrying his elderly father and his young son following behind. Bernini was only 20 years old when he began this complex work, and it shows the influences of artists like Michelangelo.
- Abduction of Proserpina – Bernini’s next masterpiece shows Proserpina (aka Persephone) being carried away to the underworld by the god Pluto (aka Hades). With this work, Bernini really came into his own as a sculptor, from the facial expressions to the variety of textures he created in the marble. The pose is masterful–the whole scene can be viewed from the front or in 360 degrees.
- David – The Biblical David was a popular subject for the great sculptors (looking at you, Michelangelo). Bernini chose to depict the height of the drama in the story: the moment when David pulls back his sling to topple Goliath. David’s face is actually self-portrait of the artist.
- Apollo and Daphne – This one is my favorite! The sculpture was commissioned before David, but you can imagine why it took Bernini longer to finish it. He takes us to the world of mythology again to show the moment when Daphne escapes the god Apollo by transforming into a tree. It’s an ethereal and otherworldly sculpture, with the stone figures almost appearing to float in mid-air.
The Borghese Gallery Rooms
Another wonderful thing about visiting the Borghese Gallery is admiring the lavishly decorated rooms. When you step into a room, look up to see all the details of the ceiling. Most of them have a theme that complements the art displayed there, from the architectural motifs to the subjects of the paintings. The ceiling frescoes were painted by some of the great masters of their time, and it took decades to complete them all.
Possibly the best example is the incredible ceiling fresco by Mariano Rossi, painted from 1775 to 1779. It depicts one of the heroes of ancient Rome, Marcus Furius Camillus, in a triumphant battle. Look for it in a room with a bunch of Roman statues around the perimeter.
Painting Collection
The Borghese Gallery is home to a fine collection of paintings, including works by Baroque masters Caravaggio and Rubens. There is really too much so see in one visit, so I would let your eyes be your guide here. Don’t feel like you have to look at every single painting. If you’re really interested, look for the posted audio guide symbols to find some of the most significant works.
Saint Jerome Writing by Caravaggio (1606) – This painting of Saint Jerome is illuminated by Caravaggio’s signature dramatic lighting and was commissioned by Cardinal Borghese. It shows the saint hard at work, possibly translating the Bible. I love the understated halo, as if his saintly devotion is a secret.
Planning Your Visit to the Borghese Gallery
Tickets to the Borghese Gallery
If you want to visit the Borghese Gallery, you need to get timed tickets online well in advance. DO NOT wait until you’re already on your trip. Try to get them when they go on sale, usually 60 days before the date. It’s best to try buying them during European business hours (i.e., morning in the US) because the website is sometimes taken offline at night. Make sure to follow the link to the official ticketing website called tosc.it.
If you can’t find tickets for your dates, consider taking a private tour through Viator or GetYourGuide. Just look for any reputable tour company. There is technically a walk-up line, but the number of people admitted is very limited.
Regular tickets cost €18. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm (last entrance at 5 pm). Closed Mondays. The museum also has free entry on the first Sunday of the month.
Your timed ticket give you access to the museum for a 2 hour window, which is honestly plenty of time to see it. Plan to be at the museum 15 minutes before your time slot so you’ll have time to drop off any bags and grab an audioguide.
Touring the Museum
The Borghese Gallery has two main floors. The first floor is where most of the famous Bernini sculptures are. The second floor has a somewhat less exciting but still good collection. For crowd control, they’ll direct part of the entry group to start up on the second floor.
My advice for touring the museum is to get the audio guide. It gives a short description of all the major artworks and of each room. It’s well worth the €5 fee. You’ll be able to see everything at your own pace. Alternatively, you can book one of the English language tours which will give you similar information.
When it comes to the major sculptures on the first floor, be sure to take your time. Look at them from different angles. See the different textures Bernini was able to coax out of solid marble. Romans of the 1600s were astonished by these artworks, and they have a powerful presence even in today’s world.
Getting to the Borghese Gallery
The Borghese Gallery is situated within the Villa Borghese Gardens north of the historic center. If you don’t mind a bit of walking, you can take the metro to the Barberini stop and walk up to the museum (about 1.5 km). You can get closer by bus. I recommend using Google Maps to figure out which route is best.
If that sounds too complicated or you’re in a hurry, I’d go by taxi. Walk to your nearest taxi stand to easily find a ride. You can always ask at a hotel, cafe, etc. where the nearest taxi stand is, usually within a few blocks.
Tips for Visiting the Borghese Gallery
- Bag policy – The Borghese Gallery does not allow backpacks or even medium-sized purses/crossbody bags into the exhibit area. Fortunately there’s a free bag check at the entrance. Stop there before picking up an audio guide.
- Visit the Villa Borghese Gardens – The beautiful Villa Borghese gardens are a nice break from the busy streets of central Rome. If you have time, I recommend taking a stroll around. It’s about 25 minutes of walking to get all the way down to Piazza del Popolo or the Spanish Steps, but at least it’s down hill.
